PCT Santiam Pass to Jack and back

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This week was supposed to be a backpacking week – initially, Sky Lake Wilderness PCT section in Southern OR. An early heavy fire season changed those plans (OR Fire Marshall on wildfires). Here’s the current wildfire picture as of 7-23-24 – just between Bend and Crater Lake.

I finally settled on Santiam Pass NOBO on PCT but punted on backpacking at the last minute and swapped out to day hiking so I could avoid fire and smoke every day – low anxiety safe hiking is my first choice. The longer Jefferson stretch of PCT (Santiam Pass to Olallie Lake) is both well covered in recent years (2023, 2022), and can be amazingly depressing from all the fires. I quickly updated plan communications to my family emergency contacts, and left home at 04:30 to drive up the pass. Along the way, there was mild fire smoke (Pyramid Fire about 25 miles from PCT), and then moisture heavy fog – almost rain w/ wind shield wipers on.

The Hike

Start = Santiam Pass ( PCT 2002.0); Turn-around = Koko Lake (PCT 2011.9)Starting from Santiam PCT TH there were about a dozen cars parked. The wilderness sign has a path around it for selfies and photos – so much for Leave No Trace Behind (LNT). Walking thru the old burns in the fog and low light was almost like walking through a horror movie. Sunrise was even odd in the fog

After about 1.5 hours, the fog started to lift but still hung on the lower elevations.

3-Finger Jack was the key highlight along the way – especially if there are mountain goats. The north slope scree field was completely snow-free (a surprise). Only a mother goat and her kid showed themselves and from a great distance. Canyon Meadows (down the east side of Jack) streams were raging and the waterfall sounds lifted up to the ridge. I was on the ridge 2x and the second time a lonely backpack sat there – else I had the ridge to myself both times.

For most part, the sky was hazy, smoke-filled and distorted long-range views. From Jack’s side, I could not see Mt. Washington at all – hidden in the haze. Even Black Butte was obscured.

I took two small side trips – neither of note. First, up the Jack climbers’ trail until I was exhausted. There were a half-dozen climbers on the rock, but a couple came down while I was going up – too much for 1 of them. The second was the small detour to Summit Lake – not that remarkable, but a great place to camp close to TH.

On the NOBO phase, I only saw 3 other hikers – 1 SOBO and 2 resting. On the SOBO phase, probably 20 hikers. The trail is used.

Flowers

This hike follows most of my previous ones this year -following the wildflower blooms! The thistles blew me away with their internal design.

Trail Conditions

For the most part, blow-downs were few and easily detoured or walked over. The 1/2 mile stretch down to Koko Lake was a mess with old burnt trees down, can’t say if those conditions continued past Koko Lake. Some snow patches hung on and the two largest ones were either walked across or underneath. More snow remained than I anticipated given the hot, hot weather recently. Other than that, the trail was remarkably clear and dry.

Final word – this section of PCT can be gut-wrenching especially after Jack. I met another section hiker going from Elk Lake to Mt Hood – he could not get over how much of that stretch is just one long burn … can be depressing, but the silver lining is that much of it is coming back to life! … just on its own timeline. If one goes regularly (yearly like I do) the changes are noticable.

Data Geek Corner

• Carbon Karma: 4 hours driving = 12 hours hiking objective
  • Actual: 8.5 hours moving
  • Bank: -3.5 hours
  • Cumulative 2024 = +22.8 hours
• Hike times: start 6:00 end 15:30 (rounded)
• Length: 21.6 miles
• Elevation gain: 3,175
• Pace: 25:41 min / mile, stopped time 41m:26s
• Weather: Hazy, 60-75 degrees
• Description: Fast hike, trekking poles but a heavy pack (not well planned given plan change last minute)

Or here https://www.gaiagps.com/public/f2aPSxvWkMMM675Zdtm8oMBX/